HELPFUL INFORMATION ABOUT INSTALLING YOUR CYLINDER

Before installing a 449B or 652B open top working barrel cylinder, separate the bottom check from the plunger. We recommend installing the bottom check in the bottom of the cylinder barrel before lowering the cylinder into the well. The leather on the bottom check is a 711 leather and is designed to swell up to keep the water from leaking out the bottom of the cylinder. Install all the lengths of your pipe down into the well. Be sure to keep your plunger in a place so that you can find it when you go to install the well rod.

We recommend using either fiberglass sucker rod or white ash wood rod with open top working barrel cylinders. These two types of rod are buoyant in water and have the same rod threads as the open top working barrels. The 1 1/8 inch wood rod and the 5/8 inch fiberglass rod have 5/8 inch rod thread and are always used on 1 7/8 inch open top working barrels. The 1 3/8 inch wood rod and the 3/4 inch fiberglass rod have 7/8 inch rod threads which match the
2 1/4" and 2 3/4" open top working barrel threads. We do not recommend using 7/16" rod with open top working barrel cylinders because it is not thick enough for proper operation of the plunger. Please note that under some circumstances we do recommend using open top working barrel cylinders with different sucker rod sizes which we do notneed to discuss here. Please note that we do not recommend using pipe as sucker rod because it adds to the load that causes the windmill to work harder.

We would like to note that the most popular rod used at this time is the fiberglass rod. It comes in exact 21' lengths, it is easier to handle and you can easily shorten the length of the rod on the job site with a fiberglass repair kit. We recommend, and so does the factory, that you use rod guides on fiberglass rod to help prevent the rods from rubbing on the side of the pipe and help keep the string of rod straight so that the windmill can operate easier. It is recommended that two rod guides be used per length of rod. Install one rod guide just down from the rod top coupling about 8" to 12" and the second rod guide in the middle of the rod. The factory does make a rod guide installation tool which we keep in stock. If you do not want to purchase this tool, you can install the rod guides by making a tool out of 1" x 4" piece of wood about 12" long. You will need to shave off the edge along the 4" side of the wood end to where it will just start into the rod guide slot. Place your rod guide on a hard clean surface with the slot facing up and proceed to place the fiberglass rod on the slot where you want to install it, then put the shaved end of the 1" x 4" on top of the rod and give it a healthy whack with a rubber mallet. Once a rod guide is installed, it will probably never be able to be removed.

When you are ready to install your rod into the well, take the plunger and thread onto the first length of rod, then install in the pipe one length of rod at a time. We do have fiberglass rod elevators to to help install the rod. When you get down closer to the cylinder, please set the rods a little slower so that when you get close to the bottom check in the cylinder barrel you do not damage the bottom of the plunger or the top of the check. This is where you will set the stroke of the plunger. When you have touched the top of the bottom check, pull up on the rod two inches, mark the rod at the top of the well because that is the new "bottom" of the stroke. Then pull up on the rod the length of the stroke of your windmill or pump jack. A 6' mill has a 6 inch stroke, an 8' mill has an 8 inch stroke, a 10' mill has a 10 inch stroke. If you have a larger mill, please call for your stroke length. Please mark your rod at the top of the well with a mark for the "top" of the stroke. Then set your mill so that it is in the full down position, the rod is set at the "bottom" of the stroke and connect the well rod to the pieces in the tower that go up to the pull rod. Some people have told us to start out with the windmill on the bottom of its stroke by locking it in by setting the brake with the 243 1/2.

You have to use wood pole from the pull rod down into the tower. The pole must be a minimum of 10 foot long. A 6' mill uses 1" square pole, an 8' mill uses an 1 1/8" square pole and a 10' mill uses an 1 1/4" square pole. Please call is you have a mill larger than 10'. Our suggestion is to cut these from 2" x 6" pine lumber. The reason for using the wood is so that it will break if something binds up in the well and this protects the windmill motor better than using a material that does not break. From this 10' wood pole down in the tower to the top of the well you can use wood poles ( we have pole splicing connectors so you can use wood down to the top of the well), fiberglass rod (the same as you use in the well), and some people use small diameter steel pipe (which we are not fond of using). Never use chain from the wood pole to the well top. You will need a mill part number 62 from the point that you stop using the wood pole. The 62 has rod threads to match the rod used in the tower or in the well. Please call for which 62 size you should use. The B62 has 5/8 inch rod threads.

Please note that it is helpful to lightly coat the outside of the leathers on your cylinder cups with Vaseline so that your leathers do not swell to much in the water. Do not leave the cylinder in the water without connecting the windmill so that the leathers do not swell so much that they are too tight in the cylinder and they cannot move.

If you are pumping out of the well into a stock tank very close to the well, you can put a galvanized tee just out of the well with a minimum of 5' of galvanized pipe above the tee so that the water will flow to the stock tank. You may have to use a longer piece of pipe above the tee. If you have a pipeline to the stock tank or you have a tank that is higher than the top of well, we have stuffing boxes to use coming out of the tee to direct the water to where you want it to go. Suffing boxes are packing glands with a rod that matches the rod thread of your well rod and the threads that match the pipe size of your drop pipe. We have heavy duty stuffing boxes for use with large mills and when a submersible is used under the windmill cylinder. Stuffing boxes also help keep the well rod centered in the drop pipe. The stuffing box rod length can be used to even the stroke in open top working barrel installation if a sinker bar is not used. We think that stuffing boxes make a better windmill installation.

T. Lindsay Baker wrote a manual for installing a 702 windmill (and can be used for the 802 windmill) which we recommend for everyone to buy. He has a lot of useful information of windmill wells for your reference.

We also have pipe elevators and pipe holders to help in your mill installation.

If you are using a closed top cylinder like the 442, your cylinder is tapped for 7/16 inch rod thread and we stock 7/16 inch galvanized rod in 21' lengths, 10' lengths and 5' lengths. This style of cylinder is usually used on 6' and 8' windmills and in shallow well settings. Most of these cylinders are tapped for 1 1/4 inch pipe, but some are tapped for 2 inch pipe. When setting the plunger on the 442 or A40 cylinder, gently go down to the bottom check, pull up only 1 inch and mark your rod at the top of the well. This will be the new "bottom of the stroke" in your cylinder/ Then pull the plunger up the length of your stroke and mark your rod at the top of the well as this is the "top of the stroke in your cylinder". Then set your mill so that it is in the full down position, the rod is set at the "bottom" of the stroke and connect the well rod to the pieces in the tower that go up to the pull rod. In most cases the 442 and A40 cylinders have a 10 inch stroke capability. You need to be careful when setting the stroke. Because these cylinders usually have 7/16 inch rod thread you would use the A62 to go from your tower poles to the well rod. When using closed top cylinders, it is easier for you to use wood poles all the way down in the tower. We do have stuffing boxes for 1 1/4 inch pipe and 7/16 inch rod.

Please note that rod thread is the same as bolt thread.

We always recommend using galvanized pipe on windmill wells.

Cylinders

Dean Bennett Supply
Ph 1-800-621-4291
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